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3D Puff on Caps

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  • 3D Puff on Caps

    I've been doing a 3D Puff design on caps for a customer and dread doing them because of all the thread breaks during the sewing. These caps are customer supplied from Zhats.com (Zephyr Brand). Flat billed fitted caps with a very hard sturdy front and also has a covered or taped seams inside. When the design reaches any portion of the middle (seam) that's when I get the many thread breaks. Can any one tell me what size/type of needle I should be using? What settings for my Amaya XT?

    Armand

  • #2
    Armand,

    Are you trying to use "Auto Activ-feed" while doing Puff? If so, discontinue using this and go to Standard. Depending on the design you are sewing and width of the columns, a material thickness setting between 20 and thirty should getyou in the ballpark. Puff is a trial and error thing untill you get the specific design dialed in....

    Rod Springer
    Amaya Tech & Trainer
    Certified tech & trainer<br />208-898-4117

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    • #3
      Rod,
      I have not been using the "Auto Activ-feed". I have set the thickness high, about 18, but I'll try the even high settings you suggest. Is there a specific needle size that I should be using? What about the presser foot? How do I set it? Before or after the foam is set on the cap?

      Armand

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      • #4
        Armand,

        For the Puff that I have done, a 75/11 sharp works just fine. Presserfoot height may need to be adjusted after the foam is placed, but keep it as low as possible so it can keep the cap from flagging but not beat the foam down. This is kind of relevant to the thickness of the foam or how many layers of foam is being placed. Sometimes disabling the "All Thread Protection" will help if the material thickness gets too high and some loose stitches cause false threadbreaks. You will have to babysit the process if doing this as a real threadbreak won't see the machine stop for it.

        You also need to slow the machine down to 650---1000 or so...whatever you can get away with...with the caps you are describing, speed is going to be important. Having the speed too high and having tight buckram may be causing thread melt from the friction. You should still be using a cap backing material. Are you using adhesive spray to hold the foam in place? Using too much of this will cause real problems with Puff and thread fraying and breakage.

        Settings by Color will allow you to program the needles that are going to sew the Puff. Are you using this tool? It can be very useful for this type of embroidery..

        Rod Springer
        Amaya Tech & Trainer
        Certified tech & trainer<br />208-898-4117

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        • #5
          I believe I'm already using the "Settings by Color" And I'm using masking tape to hold the edge of the foam down on the caps. I'm only using one layer of foam (3mm). I will try your suggested presserfoot setting. Thanks for your help and if you have any other suggestions, I welcome all and any.

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          • #6
            Rod, I wasn't using "Settings by Color". I was thinking something else. Anyway, I used the settings you suggested, but also went one giant step further. I did an entire maintenance. Even though it was not scheduled, I went to the "steppers" and did every one of them. And you can guess.......it ran very well with minimum thread breaks. I could shoot myself. I've only been doing this for a few years but my Amaya is used seasonal. Therefore it sits for lengthy times. I believe the combination of the maintenance and your suggestions made the 3D caps run well.

            Thanks again,
            Armand

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            • #7
              Armand,

              Glad I could be of some help.

              It is difficult to convince folks in general of the necessity to lubricate the Amayas on a regular basis. You just proved its value once again. Thanks for the feedback....

              Rod Springer
              Amaya Tech & Trainer
              Certified tech & trainer<br />208-898-4117

              Comment


              • #8
                I'm having a similar issue, I'm using flat billed 6 panel caps my satin stitch is set to .20 density and the thickness is on standard settings of 20 I'm using 3 mm foam 75/11 needles and the stitches are very loose??? I'm dumbfounded

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                • #9
                  Rod,
                  Thank you for the pointed help. Very few people know what to do, and are also willing to share. Appreciate your brilliance, Rod.
                  Gabriel.

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                  • #10
                    I'm preparing to do puff on some Flex Fit hats, and I've done puff only a few times before. I've already adjusted the machine to Standard feed and 20 material thickness to start, but what about the run/fill feed? Does that need tinkered with? I've set it up to 110 and gotten alright results, however I hadn't altered the Auto feed or thickness.

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                    • #11
                      you might want to look at the material feed in amaya os, it should be on 40

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