New Rotary Hook for Amaya XT

[RickBFCCreations]

I have an Amaya XT (smoky plastic covers not red) About three years ago I bought a rotary hook from ShopMelco.com just to have on hand as a spare. The part number that my manual says I should have for my serial number (329585) is 32644 Hook, Rotary, Cerliani. When I tried to order this part the only part number found at Melco was 32644-01 HOOK, ROTARY,CERLIANI. When I received this part it had a black center section instead of the all silver like the one I have. I assumed at the time(Melco's parts section is extremely lacking in information) was replacement for 32644 so I ordered it.

Now it's three years later and I installed the new rotary hook 32644-01 in attempt to solve some thread shredding, thread break, false bobbin break issues. I have set the needle to hook gap, run the hook timing procedure, set support arm gap. When I set the support arm gap I had to reposition the rotary hook because the support arm would not slide back far enough to set the gap properly. I re-ran the hook timing, sat the support arm gap again and assume everything is good to go.

Upon stitching the first design after doing all this I was having trimming issues and false bobbin breaks. I have solved the trimming issues for the most part but the false bobbin breaks persist. I guess my question is: Is this new rotary hook that has a different part number and a black center the correct part for my machine and would it be causing these false bobbin breaks or are they an unrelated issue.

Before I go crazy (crazier) I just want to eliminate the new rotary hook as a cause. The old rotary hook is worn but I think still usable so I can reinstall it if the new one is the problem. Oh and now Melco carries only one rotary hook for the Amaya that I can find: 33724 HOOK, ROTARY, ACAT CERLIANI 33724. Does anyone know if THIS part is for my Amaya XT. Any and all responses are greatly appreciated. Thank you.

[Rod or Sharon]

Rick,

The rotary hook has evolved along with other modifications of the Amayas. At the time, the black hook you described was "the hook" at the time. The black is a Teflon type coating that allowed the timer to go to 600,000 stitches between oilings. I would not advise going that long....a drop every morning before you start and one every 4 hours will keep it well lubricated.

The newer hooks have been slightly modified and on some machines, seem to make a huge difference.

But, one clue you gave was quote, " When I set the support arm gap I had to reposition the rotary hook because the support arm would not slide back far enough to set the gap properly." This makes me suspect that the "needle guard gap" is not set correctly. When setting the hook timing you have two positions to set, the left and right that positions the hook point so that it is just peeking out the left side of the needle AND the forward and rearward position so that the face of the hook point is just touching but not touching the backside of the needle. The gap between the face of the hook point and the needle needs to be absolutely as close as you can get it. The timing procedure also needs to be done using the "closest needle". Not having the "needle guard gap" set correctly could cause trimming and false thread break problems.

I have not experienced, in the last 11 years, a support finger that could not be gapped properly if the "needle guard gap" was set correctly.

That is the first thing I would check.

Rod Springer
Amaya Tech & Trainer

[Shuffletown Embroidery]

I'd like to ask a question here if I may. The instructions for timing the hook say to set the needle gap at bottom center, which is virtually impossible to see. I remember reference to the needle guard gap, but I could not understand what it meant and assumed it to be another name for the needle gap. Is this set at the hook timing position? I will re-read the instructions and see if I understand it that way having now read your explanation.
Thanks,

[RickBFCCreations]

Hi Rod, Thanks for the reply.
Apparently I didn't have the needle guard gap set correctly. That's why I went back and redid everything. I "think" I have the guard gap set as close as I can get it now without the needle actually hitting it. I say "think" because I can't see it clearly enough to make sure. What I did was go by feel. I pressed the needle end backward until I could feel it move and hit the guard then slightly adjust it until the movement was as small as I could get it and still have very slight movement when I pressed the needle backward. I may have to take the images out of the help files and bring them into Photoshop and brighten them and enlarge them so I can see for sure what they are talking about. The main thing is you told me the rotary hook is the right one. I may still put the old one back in and see if I can remedy the problems I'm now having. I've had the old one off a few times in the past and have never had this much trouble after reinstalling it and running the gap and timing procedures. Frustration does not begin to describe the situation. BUT it's a machine and I'm obviously missing something. Next step. Going to re-run the gap and timing procedures, do the 4 million feed roller maintenance, lube the cam follower and try again. If no joy I'm putting the old rotary hook back on and start again. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[RickBFCCreations]

I turned the machine off at end of the day. Started it back up the next morning and everything is fine. Just some random thread breaks hear and there like normal. Nothing else changed unless gremlins came in over night and tinkered with it. I don't get it.