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Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 20 of 20
  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Urbana, Maryland
    Posts
    248
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Sportz Tees View Post
    where do i find that?
    Right now - they are apparently offline - working to see if we can get them back...
    John Yaglenski
    Amayausers.com - Webmaster
    Levelbest Embroidery - Owner
    Living the life on Hilton Head Island, SC and serving the world via our website!
    http://www.levelbestembroidery.com

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Urbana, Maryland
    Posts
    248
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    When it finishes uploading, it will be here:

    http://youtu.be/osMuL0ZB0nM

    Was able to find it on the internet archive and have uploaded it to youtube.
    John Yaglenski
    Amayausers.com - Webmaster
    Levelbest Embroidery - Owner
    Living the life on Hilton Head Island, SC and serving the world via our website!
    http://www.levelbestembroidery.com

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Urbana, Maryland
    Posts
    248
    Post Thanks / Like
    It's also now where it should be at: http://www.amayausers.com/tips/default.asp

    Unfortunately, I don't have Julie's puff foam video - so I am hoping I can find that...
    John Yaglenski
    Amayausers.com - Webmaster
    Levelbest Embroidery - Owner
    Living the life on Hilton Head Island, SC and serving the world via our website!
    http://www.levelbestembroidery.com

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    7
    Post Thanks / Like
    What kind of needles are best for the pacific hats?

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Star, ID
    Posts
    1,551
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    Guys and gals,

    One thing to point out....the Red cap driver designation should "only" be used with the red anodized cap driver which is the newest addition to list.

    Rod Springer
    Certified tech & trainer<br />208-898-4117

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Prescott, Arizona
    Posts
    62
    Post Thanks / Like
    I use 80/12 sharps on structured hats and 75/11 sharps on unstructured hats.
    Action Graphics

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Kona, Hawaii
    Posts
    1,282
    Post Thanks / Like
    And I use #10s on everything!

    Juli in Kona
    Juli in Kona<br />Stitches in Paradise

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    7
    Post Thanks / Like
    We are having a time with everything we try to embroider now. thread break after thread break after thread break. Shirts, hats, beanies...everything. I am completely lost at this point. Am i missing something?

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Eureka, California
    Posts
    634
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    What I remember about thread breaks: If your bobbin thread is breaking, your top thread is messed up. If your top thread is messed up, it could be the bobbin. Check bobbin tension. Floss bobbin case. Replace bobbin. Replace bobbin case. Clean and oil the hook.

    Is it breaking or shredding? Breaking is a tension issue, shredding is the eye of the needle.

    Are your needles properly alligned (eye turned ever so slightly to the right, not straight ahead or to the left?

    Are your needles old? The eyes can get burrs.

    Is it all needles or just one?

    Is it the thread? Poly runs better than rayon.

    Are you using embroidery thread, not sewing thread?

    Are you using enough backing? The lighter the fabric, the heavier the backing needs to be.

    Is it hooped tightly? A not-tight hooping will up the thread break count.

    Lots of stuff to check, and these are just the ones I think of off of the top of my head.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Star, ID
    Posts
    1,551
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    More questions.....what is your presserfoot height? The cog wheel should be turned "counter-clockwise" all the way to the left, for all the way down and up maybe one or two clicks for 99+% of you sewing. having the presserfoot too high will allow flagging of the hooped material and cause fraying and/or thread breaking issues. Rule of thumb, have the presser foot as low as it will go as long as it is not damaging the fabric, leaving a foot print or pushing the fabric too much.

    Did you adjust the "auto Lower limit" settings in Tools-Settings-Threadfeed? For caps a good place to start is 6 and for flats the default is 1 but usually not more than 2 depending on how heavy the fabric/backing is. Having it too high will give you issues, crappy embroidery(too loose, too much thread being fed) and false thread/bobbin breaks.

    Having the needles in backwards with the scarf to the front/groove to the rear, is 100% failure.....

    Having a burr, groove, gouge or roughness on the face of the rotary hook retaining finger that can snag the thread will cause issues..

    Using adhesive sprays or sticky backing will cause residue build-up in the rotary hook and bobbin case areas and cause thread issues---Judy knows a lot about this one. It was a major problem for her until I had her do a WD 40 wash on the rotary hook and clean all the gunk off of it...right Judy?? ;-)

    Digitizing???? Satin stitch columns that are too narrow will/is one of the major problems that will result in threadbreak issues. Using the Minimum Column width tools in DS, set to a minimum of 10 pts will help.

    A bit of trivia...in our original training, we were told that at 1200 spm, for every stitch that is actually left on the fabric, that thread has see-sawed back and forth through the eye of the needle approximately 40 times!!!!!!! That means a burr on the needle tip or eye or anywhere in the thread path can hook the thread and start a fray/break with a 40 to 1 chance of it happening! ...

    Lubrication of the machine is critical....hook, trimmer, needlebars, reciprocator, threadfeed rollers must-I repeat, must be kept well lubricated for high speed embroidery!

    Rod Springer
    Amaya Tech & Trainer
    Certified tech & trainer<br />208-898-4117

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