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  • Filled Circle Registration

    Does anyone know what Design shop V10 settings I can use to have a filled circle REMAIN a circle after sewing. The digitizing looks good, but when sewn out it turns into an egg shape. Design is for an "8 ball", so it really needs to be a definite circle. Thanks for any help on this.

  • #2
    This is not the fault of DS. This is the nature of push and pull. Having said that, the problem can be fixed by splitting the circle in half and sewing each side from the inside out. This is after laying down a good solid underlay under the whole circle. That is stitches going both directions and keeping the stitch length short. (I di that by using 2 objects, one on top of the other. The bottom one is a fill with density about 1.5 to 2 and slightly in a different direction than the next object which is your real circle. That circle can have a looser density because of all the underlay, otherwise it will be "bullet proof". And use a good heavy stabilizer.) Circles are always a problem and after doing the above, you must do trial sewouts. Every material will act differently with more or less push and pull. Alternatively, you can just distort the circle to try to get it to end up circular. But then the lettering and whatever is harder to get in the right place because it will not have the same push and pull as the circle. Circle logos are not fun!
    Juli in Kona<br />Stitches in Paradise

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    • #3
      Thanks On Filled Circle Registration Info....

      thanks so much Juli! I will try all of your recommendations. To make matters worse, these are going on caps. I will take all of your advice. Will let you know how it goes - will be a bit as I just ordered the caps.
      Originally posted by Juli in Kona View Post
      This is not the fault of DS. This is the nature of push and pull. Having said that, the problem can be fixed by splitting the circle in half and sewing each side from the inside out. This is after laying down a good solid underlay under the whole circle. That is stitches going both directions and keeping the stitch length short. (I di that by using 2 objects, one on top of the other. The bottom one is a fill with density about 1.5 to 2 and slightly in a different direction than the next object which is your real circle. That circle can have a looser density because of all the underlay, otherwise it will be "bullet proof". And use a good heavy stabilizer.) Circles are always a problem and after doing the above, you must do trial sewouts. Every material will act differently with more or less push and pull. Alternatively, you can just distort the circle to try to get it to end up circular. But then the lettering and whatever is harder to get in the right place because it will not have the same push and pull as the circle. Circle logos are not fun!

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      • #4
        I actually have an 8 ball that I did years ago. I digitized this myself and did not follow my own advice, but it is round. If you would like it, send me your email addy in a private message. And if the hat is unstructured, use 2 sheets of stabilizer.
        Juli in Kona<br />Stitches in Paradise

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        • #5
          Great explanation! And just the help I needed!

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