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  • Adding to a design already sewn

    OK, here we go.

    This works if the design is such that a whole object or objects it to be added on to an original embroidery. And it works with the XTs because of the laser lineup feature.

    First you need to find a reference line on the original embroidery. This needs to be level - straight across. And the end points must be at some point on the original that you can actually point to with the laser. For instance, a circle has no reference points, but a square does. So, get your original design on the screen. Now, digitize a line from the left to the right on your reference points. You will not sew this line - it is for lining up only. And these points need to extend out further than the design you are adding.

    Now insert or digitize the part you want to add. This can sit above, on or straddle the reference line. Actually it is best if the new part straddkes the ref line. And be sure that the ref line is a color all by itself. Just to check that you have done it right, blank out the color of the line and the design should look exactly how you want it, with the added ion part on top of the original embroidery. And it is wise to have an overlap - just a little.

    When everything looks right, delete the original design, leaving the ref line and the added on part. Now center your design.

    You are ready to hoop the original. Hoop it so that your entire new part, including the ref line can be sewn. Using the laser for centering, use the ends of the ref line to center on. This will give you the left-right placement.

    A note here: I usually delete all stitch points on the line except for the first and last point. So, then after you cent with the laser, and arrow to your first stitch and do a needle down, it should be right on the first ref point. Same with the second stitch point (the other end of the line); it should be right on it.

    Now do a trace. The left and right should be right on the ref points because your added on design is totally inside the line. If you allowed the added on design to straddle the ref line, then the up and down placement should be right on too. If your design couldn't allow for that, then you will have to move the design up or down. But be carefull!

    Now you are ready to sew. VERY IMPORTANT - do not sew the first color. That is the ref line and should not be sewn. However, it is only two points with no ties, so even if you did sew it by mistake, you could probably easily trim it off.

    This whole thing works because when you use the laser to line up, it is lining up on the ref points. If you hoop the material slightly off, that is not straight, the laser line up will turn the added on design.

    I know this sound complicated, but it really isn't. The important thing to remember is that the ref line must extend out, left and right, from the added on part. But the added on part does NOT have to be centered on the ref line. It can be anywhere within the end points.

    It would be a good idea to find an old sample stitchout of some design and just add on a new leaf of something. Practice a little and you will see how this works. I try to add on to the top - just makes things simpler - in my mind.

    Now what do you do if one of the ref points has to be out in space? Say, you are adding a hummingbird to a flower, but it is flying in from the upper right and its beak is right in the center of a flower (needs accurate placement) and the tail is out in space. I would make the left point right at the point of the beak. This should be the most left point in the design. And for the right point I would use a chalk mark to make a point out level with the left point. Place the bird with its beak right on the left point. And the right point will be out beyond the tail. The bird is wholly within the ref line, although the left side is on the ref point. But it will still work.

    Hope this helps. Practice will help with the basic understanding. Like why the ref line has to extend out beyond the added on design.

    Juli in Kona
    Juli in Kona<br />Stitches in Paradise

  • #2
    I don't have an XT and do something similar by digitizing match points over several easily identified parts of the original design (such as the tip of vine or any small object; you could even use the outline of an object by automatically adding a walk around it) using the same color change technique etc. that Juli describes. I then hoop my backing in a large hoop and "embroider" the match points without thread (turn off thread detection) and mark the penetrations with a pencil so I can see them easily. Place the hoop on an ironing board or any surface that you can pin into; align the existing design with the match points on the backing using pins and/or spray adhesive. Go back to the beginning of the color that your match points are in and check the alignment using a combination of the laser and needle-downs. You can also digitize a a basting line around the original design (increase your thread feed so the basting is easily removed) to hold it in place while the new design is being added. Don't forget to turn on your thread detection and reset your thread feed - guess why I emphasize this!

    I hope this gets the idea across because I don't have time right now to explain more fully. This is similar to the technique I use for aligning pieces of long continuous designs or designs to large for my jacket back hoop. The laser alignment feature sounds great; maybe someday....

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    • #3
      oops, designs "too large" not "to large" for my jacket back hoop.

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