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  • Tablecloth

    I have been given the honor of embroidering a tablecloth for a communion table as a gift to a church in Malawi. The ladies group at the local church provided a 100% slightly textured polyester tablecloth to use. Any tips on backing? I would like to use tearaway so the backing doesn't show through when it hangs down on the front of the table. Will that work? I am doing a lot of lettering(2")and could use some tips on density and underlay to avoid puckering. Anyone out there have a large (12")Presbyterian Cross design?

  • #2
    We do a lot of this kind of thing and for a while I was sold on diagonal poly mesh until I found something that I like better - it's called Super Soft 1.5 oz.Tearaway sold by American Embroidery Supply. It is a bit tougher to tear but has a softer drape than regular tearaway which is kind of crisp. It also has longer fibers that support fairly high stitch counts better than regular tearaway and is treated with needle lubricants. The only way I have found to to improve upon its resistance to puckering is to go with a fairly heavy cutaway which can be so time consuming.

    There are others that can better help with your lettering although I will recommend that you miter or cap any pointy parts whether in the design or the lettering. This made a huge difference in in the amount of puckering I was getting (thanks to a suggestion by Rod Springer).

    Finally, do you need a method for aligning successive hoopings in series along the length of the table? If so, I can help with that.

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    • #3
      Thank you for the info! Yes, I would like to hear your method of alignment!

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      • #4
        I too, would love to learn your method of lining up successive hoopings if you would not mind sharing?!
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        • #5
          For lining up successive hoopings, Juli in Kona wrote a great post to which I added my two cents. It's called "adding to a design already sewn" on 12/16/11. It will probably help if you read it before trying to understand the rest of my posting below.

          For long designs there is one more thing that I would do. I make a design file which I call "layout" which has the entire design as it will appear on the cloth even it is 60" long because it will not be embroidered. Each section that will be an individual hooping is a design that has a horizontal and vertical centerline digitized over it, similar to what Juli calls her reference line. This is most easily done by digitizing each section with it's own centerlines in a separate file then pasting them one at a time into your layout file. The vertical centerlines will now be located to the right and left of the layout centerline and will show you where to mark your fabric centers for each successive hooping. If you click on the vertical line, you can divide the number of points on the X axis by 254 (the number of points per inch) to find the distance to the right or left of your fabric center for marking each hooping. This can then be double checked using the method in the posting I recommended.

          I hope this makes sense, but feel free to ask if I can clarify anything.

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          • #6
            One more thing, I don't have time to try it right now but I think if you do a search on this site for the words "match points" you will find some helpful info.

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