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Stabilizers Used and Hooping Techniques for Polos and Golf Shirts

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  • Stabilizers Used and Hooping Techniques for Polos and Golf Shirts

    I am getting puckering on high stitch count designs (25k to 30k). What tricks do you use to prevent this puckering? I have tried Weblon from Madiera. Is this considered a No Show nylon mesh? I have tried this with an additional layer of 2.5 ounce or 3 ounce tear away backing.

    In another post someone recommended using wax paper between the needle plate and the hoop. Has anyone tried this? It was also stated that "wet-laid" backing will suffice in place of the wax paper to lubricate the needle.

    What hooping suggestions do you have. One article I read said get the material "drum tight." Another said not to tighten the screw once the material is hooped - firm but not drum tight.

    Thanks for all your input!

  • #2
    You should be hooping so your backing is tight however your garment should not be stretched.
    (tight but not stretched)

    you are stitching on a knit you should try a cutaway backing 1.5-2 oz weblon may not be sufficient
    for a 30 k design.

    and you mention that your stitching on a polo if it has a heavy pique texture you may want to use a topping.

    Though make sure your design is a quality design the way a design is digitized can cause more puckering then most anything else.
    [email protected]
    Jerome in Minnesota
    (320)259-1151

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    • #3
      Good digitizing. Seriously. Puckering usually is caused by poor digitizing or stabilizer issues. Are you digitizing yourself? Push and pull of fabric can happen a lot with lousy digitizing. The design could be too dense.

      When you say stretchy knits - are you talking golf shirt like knits? We use cut away. 2 slices. Don't use tear away much if we don't have to - except sometimes sleeves.

      1 C series all stitch wet laid
      http://www.allstitch.net/department/...ings-10082.cfm

      1 Classic Cut away
      http://www.allstitch.net/department/...ings-10078.cfm

      Honestly, that's it. Stable underlay, good digitizing and a couple slices of cut away backing usually does it for us.

      Hooping should be tight enough to hold the hoop but not so tight it causes hoop burn. Loose hooping - never.
      John Yaglenski
      Amayausers.com - Webmaster
      Levelbest Embroidery - Owner

      Living the life on Hilton Head Island, SC and serving the world via our website! http://www.levelbestembroidery.com

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      • #4
        What does "wet laid" mean? And what are the advantages? When to use? Thanks!
        Thanks!<br />MJ, Everything Embroidered

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        • #5
          Originally posted by MJ View Post
          What does "wet laid" mean? And what are the advantages? When to use? Thanks!
          Wet Laid is the process by which the stabilizer is made.

          From the interwebs:

          The wet laid process is similar to the fine paper making process but there are differences. The process used to take place in rivers - but they are now manufactured in a few plants worldwide w giant machines. There is a slurry of water running through a trough in a machine and there is a wire screen sitting in this trough or bath. We mix in the components polyester (a short fiber) for softness, rayon for tearabilty and stiffness, in varying percentages, depending if it is a tearaway or a cutaway being made. Cellulose is also added as inexpensive filler.

          All the fibers then are bound together with an acrylic binder and we add silicone as a sewing aid. The screen then rises and dries, similar to an alluvial formation, like a river delta. Evenly spread – there is no direction to the fibers. This is your “tambourine skin”

          The resulting wet laid stabilizers are both non-directional, dense, and soft for drapability. They can also be made firm!

          These are specifically made for sewing (the addition of silicone), and even more specifically for embroidery. They are made in weights between 1 osy (ounces per sq yard) and 3 osy.

          The idea is to match the weight and density of the stabilizer to your stitch count and stitch density, taking into account the weight and stretch of your fabric.
          BTW, many folks say you should only need one layer of wet laid - we do only use one but combine it with a traditional backing for greater stability. That's what works for us - your mileage may vary.

          Too bad Fred Lebow stopped posting here - you can probably search the site for many of his posts from years past. He's kind of the stabilizer expert and good guy to boot.
          John Yaglenski
          Amayausers.com - Webmaster
          Levelbest Embroidery - Owner

          Living the life on Hilton Head Island, SC and serving the world via our website! http://www.levelbestembroidery.com

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks, John!
            Thanks!<br />MJ, Everything Embroidered

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